20th-century upphlutur

The upphlutur evolved in accord with changing ideas and fashion, and availability of materials. The 20th-century upphlutur developed to be quite different from what had been worn in the previous century. The skirt was black, sewn of silk-satin or similar fabric, and the bodice itself was made of similar material, and invariably black. The neckline of the bodice was cut lower, and the bodice had only four sets of eyelets. The velvet ribbons on the front of the bodice grew wider and were ornamented with metal-thread embroidery or silver flowers. The back still had the narrow trim on the shoulder seams, and two lengths of trim in the middle of the back. The chemise somtimes had a low neckline. Colours varied. A variety of fabrics were used for the chemise and apron; and in the mid-20th century synthetic fabrics became popular. The cap was now shallow, sewn of velvet, with a long black silk tassel. At the neck there was a silver brooch, and silver cufflinks were worn; also a belt of metal links, or a velvet belt with silver ornament. Today the upphlutur is generally sewn of woollen cloth, with a light-coloured shirt; the apron is vertically-striped or chequered, and a shallow cap is knitted of fine black woollen yarn. Women wear black stockings and shoes with the upphlutur.

Upphlutur breyttist í samræmi við tíðaranda, tísku og fáanleg efni. Upphlutur 20. aldar varð að mörgu leyti ólíkur þeim sem konur klæddust öldinni áður. Pils var svart, saumað úr klæði, silkisatíni, eða efni sem líktist því, og upphluturinn úr svipuðu efni og alltaf svartur. Bolurinn varð flegnari en fyrr og millupör aðeins fjögur. Flauelsborðar á barmi breikkuðu og voru skreyttir vírbaldýringum eða silfurrósum. Á baki héldust mjóar leggingar á axlarsaumum og tvær á miðju baki. Skyrtan gat verið flegin, svört, hvít eða mislit, úr ýmsum efnum, rétt eins og svuntan og um miðbik aldarinnar var farið að nota gerviefni í svuntu og skyrtu. Húfan var grunn, saumuð úr flaueli, með löngum, svörtum silkiskúf. Silfurnæla var við hálsmál, silfurermahnappar svo og stokkabelti eða silfurskreytt flauelsbelti.  Nútímaupphlutur er oftast saumaður úr ullarefni, skyrta höfð ljós, og svunta köflótt eða langröndótt og grunn húfa prjónuð úr fínu, svörtu ullarbandi. Við upphlutinn eru konur í svörtum sokkum og skóm.

 


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