19th-century upphlutur

The upphlutur or bodice was part of women’s dress from early times, but it was not a specific costume. The upphlutur costume derives its name from the tightly-fitted bodice, often of coloured velvet or woollen cloth, which women wore over a light-coloured chemise of wool or linen. The bodice opened at the front and was laced together with eyelets attached to the plackets – five or more on each side – and laced together so that the bodice fit snugly. Plackets were ornamented with ribbons of metal thread or velvet, with embroidery in silk, or sometimes metal thread. Three lengths of velvet or metal-thread trim decorated the back of the bodice and the shoulder seams. At the neck there was a brooch or scarf. The skirt was of black or dark-blue woollen cloth, tightly-fitted at the back. It hung from the bodice. The woollen or cotton apron was vertically striped or chequered. The cap was deep, knitted of fine black woollen yarn, with a short woollen tassel, generally of a contrasting colour. A cylindrical ornament of metal-thread ribbon or silver covered the join between the cap and the tassel. In the 19th century most women wore woollen stockings and simple home-made shoes of sheep leather.

 


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